12 Affordable Tools All Homeowners Need, but Many Do Not Have

This is a short list of great tools that many handy homeowners have in their tool bag or workshop but may be absent from the bags and garages of the average homeowner.  It is always nice to have the right tool for the job and these tools can certainly make a project far less stressful.

  1. Kreg Rip Cut

This tool attaches to just about any circular saw and allows for very quick adjustments and rip cuts of boards and plywood.  Adjustable from 2″-24″, this great little device eliminates the need for chalk lines, straight edges, and steady hands to make many rip cuts in a short amount of time.  This thing was a life summer for my subfloor replacement project last summer and will be called to duty again this coming summer when the project resumes.

2. Submersible Water Pump

I have used this little fountain pump to literally bail me out on a few projects.  Removing water from a broken washing machine, an old hot water tank, and from a hole that kept filling with water as I was trying to repair a water line in my yard recently are three examples.  You may not use it often, but when you need it you will be thankful that you have it.

3. Wet/Dry Vacuum

I love my shop vac.  From home to vehicle to shop there is really nothing more that you need for cleaning up dust, water, and debris.  I can (and probably will) write an entire post about the usefulness of a wet/dry vac, it is an all around great tool.

4. Hammer Drill

Hammer drills like this one are really two tools in one.  They can be adjusted to function as a typical drill/driver or switched to hammer drill mode for a simultaneous drill/hammering action which allows the user to drill into brick, cement, and mortar.  A hammer drill is a must have tool for anyone with brick features in, on, and around their home.

5. Bench Vise

Bench vises come in a variety of sizes and styles and can range from $25 – hundreds of dollars depending on brand and type.  Regardless of size, a solid bench vise can make many difficult tasks easy by lending you a super strong third hand to grip materials.  From cutting, drilling, tapping, and threading metals to carving spoons as shown in this how-to article, a bench vise can be useful for just about any project.

6. Fire Extinguisher

I believe the need for this tool is self-explanatory.

7.  Electric Hand Plane

From trimming sticking doors to flattening lumber hand planes both manual and electric have a ton of uses around the house and shop.  You can learn more about the WEN brand of tools here.

8. Pancake Air Compressor

Inflating tires, pools, inner-tubes, and air mattresses are some very practical uses for a pancake compressor, but there are also a number air tools that can be purchased to use with these compressors as well.  I have a large stationary compressor in my shop but still own a small pancake compressor due to its convenience and portability.  They are powered by standard household outlets which make them great for cleaning tools and equipment around the house as well.

9.  DeWalt Angle Grinder

I specifically recommend DeWalt’s angle grinders because I have been burned by several cheaper angle grinders in the past.  I have put my Dewalt through hell and it has yet to let me down.  Angle grinders are great for cutting, shaping, grinding, and sanding metals and some wood working attachments are available for these versatile little tools as well.

10. Oscillating Multi-tool

I just added this tool to my arsenal about a year ago and have kicked myself for waiting so long to do so a few times since.  This thing will not only except a number of different blades and attachments that will allow you to sand and cut just about any material known to man, it will also allow you to do so in some very tight spots and at some very weird angles.  It is another one of those tools that made my subflooring job exponentially easier.

11.  Hand Riveter

Hand riveters allow for the fastening of many different thin materials and sheet metals quickly, easily, and without the need for power tools.  Rivets also come in aluminum which allows for a strong hold of materials without being susceptible to rust.

12.  Hand Truck/Dolly

From moving appliances, furniture and boxes in, out, and around the house to hauling bags of mulch and ready mix around the yard, a dolly can make life much easier.  It seems that I am called upon to help a family member or friend to move every few years and my dolly always makes the trip with me.  It is not an item that I use daily, but when I need it, I love it.

Thank you very much for reading.  For more information,  pricing and reviews of these tools simply click the link next to each one.  All comments, likes, follows, and shares are greatly appreciated.  Work safe!

Jake

How to Make a Wooden Spoon with Hand Tools

Possibly the best thing about making wooden spoons is that it allows right-brained people to experience success and satisfaction in the often left-brained world of woodworking.  In fact, it is not uncommon for some of the more off-script creations to be some of the more interesting and beautiful spoons that are carved.  Not only does spoon making present artistic liberties not able to be had in many other forms of woodworking, but the hobby also allows for success participation with minimal investment in terms of tools.  I actually made my first twenty or so spoons with nothing more than a hacksaw, a wood chisel, and some sandpaper, one of which is the center spoon pictured below.

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The spoon in the middle was one of my first creations using only a wood chisel, handsaw, and sandpaper. It is a beautiful piece of Pecan wood that I pulled from the bayou behind my shop. I like this spoon but kind of wish that I had the piece of wood back since it was so pretty and my skills were so limited when I made it.

THE TOOLS

Before we get into the build, here are the exact tools used for this particular project.  Altogether these tools can be purchased for about $80 on Amazon.  Click the link provided for individual pricing and reviews.

Wood Gouge Set

 Hacksaw with blade storage handle

 Spoon Gouge

  Wood Rasp

  Half Round Wood File

40 Grit Sanding Belts

Though probably not ideal, I typically use the 4″ bench vise similar to this one seen in most of the pictures with a block of wood on each side of the work piece to avoid damage, but a woodworker’s vise would most likely be better due to the fact it is designed for the use.  You can even use less costly work clamps  or toggle clamps to hold your work piece, though they are not quite as stable as a vise.

THE PROCESS

1st – Choose your wood

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For a cooking spoon that will be used you will want to choose a hardwood so that the utensil will hold up to potential daily use. Woods like hickory, maple, ash, oak, walnut, and cherry make very good cooking spoons. I typically use Pecan wood (a species of hickory) because it is readily available to me here in South Louisiana and I think that it is beautiful wood. All of my spoons come from fallen trees and limbs that I pick up myself and make spoon blanks and other things from. You do not have to make your own blanks, you can simply buy untreated hardwood lumber from your local lumber yard and cut many blanks from it.

2nd – Choose your design

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I use this cheap wooden spoon that I got some time back from a local dollar store to get the basic shape for many of my spoons.
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I really like the shape/design of the spoon that I use as my template because it is simple, but offers many options for choosing what type of spoon to make in terms of depth and intended purpose.
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This particular spoon will be a basic cooking spoon, so I added a curved line to outline the perimeter of the shallow bowl to be carved.

3rd – Rough out the bowl

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Using the largest gouge from the set previously pictured, begin to gouge out the bowl of the spoon. Work from bottom to top and top to bottom of the bowl (the direction in the picture and its opposite), not side to side, as this will prevent splitting and tearing of the wood.
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Depending on the depth you are trying to achieve, it will not take long before you have your bowl roughed out. P.S. I suggest waiting to cut the spoon’s shape out after carving the bowl to allow for compensation for potential errors. It is not uncommon to get a little too ambitious with the gouges and cut past your bowl outline or get some tear out. With extra wood on the side of your outline you can almost always compensate for your miscues.

4th – Clean up the bowl

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Using a spoon gouge you will finish defining the shape and contour of your bowl to the final depth.
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Unlike the wood gouge, the spoon gouge should be carefully used in all directions to clean up any previously made tool marks as best as possible.
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All that is left for the bowl is sanding.

5th – Cut out the spoon

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I typically use a bandsaw to cut out the spoon but for the sake of this post I used a hacksaw. It comes out just as good, it just takes a little longer. A jigsaw or handsaw could be used just as well.
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To cut out the spoon without cutting into the curves and contours of the piece simply make a series of cuts horizontal to the spoon up to the spoon’s outline.
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After you make your horizontal cuts, cut along them to remove each block of wood from your previous cuts. Be careful not to cut into your spoon. Do not worry if your outline looks super rough and uneven, we will address that in the next step.

6th – Clean up the shape

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Use your wood rasp to rough out the shape of the back of the bowl and the handle. The rasp will remove a good bit of wood so be sure that you begin with a blank that is thick enough to lose some wood in the later shaping process.
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A half-round file (pictured closest to the bowl) is a good substitute for the rasps when shaping the curves and contours of the handle and the area where the handle meets the bowl.
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After shaping with the rasp and file, use the coarse sanding belt to finish shaping the spoon to its final form. For the back of bowl and handle you will want to use a two-handed “flossing” method to get a nice rounded contour. By “flossing” I mean take one end of the belt in your left hand, the other end in your right, and pull down with your right hand, then pull down with your left, and repeat. Your sanding belt will glide back and forth across the work piece while being oriented like the belt in the picture.
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You can see how much nicer the shape is after the “flossing” sanding method when you compare this picture to the previous one.
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Repeat the same sanding method used on the back of the bowl on the handle to get your final desired shape.

7th – Final sanding

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After the last step you should basically have your final shape, all there is left to do is some progressive finish sanding. Starting with a coarse grit paper (60 grit), sand away all previously made tool and sanding marks from the handle and back of bowl. Once all previous marks are sanded away progress to a slightly finer grit paper (100 grit). Continue progressing to finer grit papers, sanding out all marks left previously, until you get to a 300 or 400 grit paper. Since it is a cooking spoon that will be used often, there is really no need to progress to a sand paper any finer than 300 or 400 grit for the handle and back of bowl unless you just want to for some reason. I personally do not progress to a paper finer than 220 on the inside of the bowl for the same reason just mentioned.
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Front view after final sanding.
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Rear view after sanding.

8th/Final – Sealing the wood

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There are many different food grade oils that can be used to seal the wood. I personally whatever I have on hand in the kitchen which is vegetable, canola, or olive oil.
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I used vegetable oil to seal this spoon. I typically apply a liberal amount upon completion of the spoon, let it dry for a day, then apply another coat of oil and let it dry for a day or two before use.
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I have used coconut oil in the past and it looks great, but coconut oil is solid at room temperature and leaves a heavy residue feel to the spoon once the oil re-solidifies after being applied.

It always fascinates me how sealing Pecan with oil completely transforms the color of the wood.  It takes on a much darker, rich look compared to the lighter color of the unsealed pecan.

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Sealed
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Unsealed

Though there are power tools that expedite the spoon making process, they are not necessary for the completion of a great spoon.  Truth be told I typically forgo many of my power tools for the process described in this post because it allows for better control and accuracy in making the spoon, which leads to a better finished product.  Not to mention all of the tools used in this project can be purchased for about the same price of my Wen belt sander pictured below, and although I love it,  it is just one tool opposed to six.

I hope that you have enjoyed this article and found it to be informative.  If you did I would greatly appreciate if you would like, comment, follow tool-school.com, and share this post on social media.  Should you have any questions or like more information on how to make your own wooden spoons please do not hesitate to ask in the comment section or contact me at jakestoolschool@yahoo.com.  Thanks so much for reading!

Jake

DIY Storage Cabinet —

My cousin and his fiance recently moved into a new house that has a good size bathroom, but was lacking storage space for towels and toiletries. They came to us with an idea of either a bench or shelf that could hold storage baskets to help keep everything organized. First of all, I was thrilled […]

via DIY Storage Cabinet —

I enjoyed this post by Our Blank Canvas and wanted to share this very cool build.  Builds like this make the Kreg pocket hole jig worth its weight in gold.

Tool-school.com Mentioned as Top 21 Home Improvement Blog for 2018

I want to give a big thanks to bestdrillreviews.com for listing tool-school.com as a top 21 Home Improvement blog of 2018.  If you are in the market for a cordless drill check out their site for a ton of useful information and comparisons.

bestdrillreviews.com

PVC YOU LATER: Cheap/Easy DIY Kids Time Capsule Project

I recently stumbled upon an ad for a time capsule being sold as a product for kids by the Smithsonian.  Though pricey, I liked the idea because it reminded me of the time capsule project that my dad spearheaded with me when I was a kid.  Our time capsule did not look as futuristic as the one sold by the Smithsonian, but I am certain that it offered the same amount of excitement and entertainment.  Though I liked it, I did not order the Smithsonian’s time capsule kit, what I did was run to the hardware store and buy the components needed for me and my little ones to make our own.

The PVC time capsule project will typically cost around $20 depending on the components that you already have that are not uncommon to have around the house.  The materials needed for this project are as follows:

1- 2ft x 4″ piece of PVC pipe (2″ or 3″ could be used) (about $9)

1- 4″ PVC drain cap (about $2)

1- 4″ PVC cleanout plug (about $4)

1- 4″ PVC hub x female adapter (about $6)

PVC cement and primer or all in one (price varies)

If you decide to use a smaller diameter pipe, the price of the build will decrease.  All named components are pictured below.

Assembly

I do not actually glue/cement the pipe together in my pictures and video but the glue/cement process is critical to the finished water-tight product.  For instructions on how to glue/cement PVC pipe together click here.

The material list says to get a 2ft long piece of 4 inch pipe but the length of your capsule is totally your preference.  I would suggest cutting the pipe down to 14 or 16 inches, but that is just my preference.

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Black arrow-Drain (end) cap Red arrow- Threaded Hub x Female Adapter Green arrow- Cleanout plug

Step 1

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Apply primer to the inside of the end cap and one end of your pipe, then apply glue to both in the same manner and press and hold the end cap onto the pipe firmly for about 5 seconds.

Step 2

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Using the same primer and cement application process as step one, apply both to the non-threaded female adapter end and the opposite end of the pipe from the end cap. Insert pipe into female adapter end and hold firmly for about 5 seconds.

Step 3

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Lastly, thread the cleanout plug into the threaded hub and voila! You are now the proud owner of a homemade time capsule. It is not a bad idea to wrap the clean out plug threads in Teflon tape for added protection against water intrusion.

Finished Product

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I really like this project for a variety of reasons.  It is cheap, fun, and customizable.  Your kids will not only enjoy the build and burying of the time capsule, but they can also have fun painting and drawing on it as well.

Another reason I like this build is that the time capsule can serve as a water-tight vessel for other applications as well.  In the past I have used this same design to serve as dry storage for my welding rods and it works great.

My absolute favorite use for this water-tight container in the past outside of a time capsule is easily its function as dry storage when boating, fishing, or canoeing.  The 14″ long by 4″ diameter tube is great for storing wallets, money, cell phones, and keys while on the water.  Even better is should it be accidentally knocked out of a boat or fall out of an overturned canoe it will float, so the recovery of valuables or personal belongings is only a matter of paddling to it and hoisting it back in your vessel.

Regardless of how you and your family use this little contraption I am certain that you will have a great time completing this project together as my dad and I did, and as my daughters and I will do.  With that being said, I have linked to a few time capsules and dry storage products below that do not require as much effort for those not as motivated to DIY.

Smithsonian Time Capsule

$12 Time Capsule

Welding Rod Dry Container

Dry Box for Boating/Water Activities

Thank you very much for reading.  If you found this post to be informative, useful, or entertaining please be sure to like, comment, share, and follow tool-school.com.  Good luck with your projects!

Jake

How to Glue/Cement PVC Pipe

I apologize for my posts being somewhat PVC-centric lately, the stuff is just so cheap and versatile so it is hard to stay away from sometimes.  I am not attempting to insult anyone’s intelligence, but I wanted to post a quick video of how to properly join PVC pipe and fittings together using PVC primer and cement.

Step 1 – Check the fit of the components to be joined.

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Step 2 – Prime/Prep/Clean areas to be joined.

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Step 3 – Apply cement to the inside of both components being joined.

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Step 4 – Insert pipe into fitting and hold in place for about 5 seconds so that the cement/glue does not force pipe out of fitting.

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Step 5 – Allow 15 minutes cure time for handling and about 2 hours before putting the pipe into service.

Here is a video of the same process pictured above.

PVC cement/primer combo packs can be purchased on amazon for under $10 as shown in the following link.  Oatey PVC cement and primer pack.

Thank you for reading.  Please be sure to like, comment, share, and follow tool-school.com!  Have a great day.

Jake

Nike Introduces New Plumbing Tool?

Though unlikely I know, if you ever find yourself in the middle of nowhere, miles from civilization, and trying to complete a plumbing job only to realize you forgot your hacksaw, just grab the lace from your shoe and cut your pipe with it.  Having to resort to such measures may be a stretch, but I have legitimately been bailed out by my shoelace before when needing to cut PVC without having a hacksaw around.

There is a good chance that your shoe lace will break a time or two per cut, but it will get the job done.  I actually use black twine in the video below only because I was having camera issues and used too many shoelaces cutting pipe in the out-takes.  The moral of this story is not my sketchy videography, it is to let you know that if you are ever in a plumbing situation requiring the need to cut some PVC pipe, string or shoelaces will get you through it.

 

If you are completely unwilling to sacrifice any component of your footwear in order to get the job done, I have provided links to a few tools that store easily under a vehicle seat or in a console.

Milwaukee Compact Hacksaw

PVC Pipe Cable Saw

Milwaukee Cordless PVC Shear

Thank you for checking out my site, please be sure to like, comment, follow, and share on social media.

Learn to Weld for Under $100

As a homeowner, handyman, tinkerer, and serial DIY’er I can think of few skills that are as useful as the ability to weld.  Whether it be a want, or a need, the ability to securely join metal together can add greatly to many home projects.   Unfortunately many people, including do-it-yourselfers, lack this skill and are often intimidated by the thought of high flowing electricity and the ever-present sight of sparks and molten metal while welding metals together, not to mention the cost of welding equipment and consumables.  It can be a scary hobby to dive into.

welding featured image

For those of you unwilling to overcome the trepidation, you are missing out, thanks for reading.  For those of you willing to learn new safety, process, and scientific methods, read on and enjoy.  Although learning to weld safely most definitely requires beginners to learn a wide array of welding safety practices, it can be done by anyone in a very safe manner with little risk to the welder, and good welding safety practices can be learned from a variety of free and readily available sources such as this industry leading company.

THE PROBLEM

Since the time I was probably 16 or 17 years old I had wanted to learn to stick weld but had no idea where to turn for my education.  Despite working as a weld quality inspector for several years I did not start my journey in welding until a year or two after I left the industrial inspection field.  A few years after becoming a homeowner and completing many projects and repairs around the house myself, I realized that welding would allow me to be so much more versatile as a do-it-yourselfer and some projects that needed to be done would not be possible for me without being able to weld.  Now that I was insistent on learning to weld I faced two major road blocks in doing so, first, welding equipment is expensive, and second, I did not have anyone to teach me.

THE FIRST SOLUTION

Knowing the cost involved with welding was not low, and not knowing whether I would be any good at it or even like it, I began researching cheap, off-brand welding machines in hopes of finding one with decent reviews in my price range.  After weeks of research and internal debate, I decided on the Goplus 110/220v Arc Welder, a decision that I would not regret.  At a price of just under $100 I figured the financial risk to reward was relatively low considering it had overall pretty good reviews.  The only issue that I ever had with the machine was that it did not work upon arrival.  I opened the metal cover up and quickly discovered that it came to me with the ground wire unattached to the cover due to not being screwed down by the ground wire connection screw.  About a minute and 6 turns of a wrench fixed the issue and this machine was off and running.

THE SECOND SOLUTION

Since I had no one to give me any hands-on training on how to weld metal I did what I considered to be the next best and closest thing to getting private instruction, I searched the internet.  I watched hundreds of videos, read hundreds of blog and website posts, and even bought books on how to weld.  Though I learned from each and every source that I have viewed, to this day my personal favorite are the videos made by YouTuber ChuckE2009.  I do not know this guy, nor have I ever met or spoken to him, but he has taught me more about welding than anyone else on the planet, for free!  He has an extensive collection of video resources on YouTube that demonstrate just about everything from basic welding techniques to project how-to’s.

I do not now, nor have I in the past claimed to be a professional welder, but I can make metal permanently stick using the process.  It all began with a cheap welder and a YouTube subscription to some guy who lives in God only knows where’s channel.  Both have served me well.  I now have a brand name home/shop level welder that is definitely better than the cheap Goplus, but it can not do anything more than the Goplus.  If you are on the fence about jumping into the welding game I would highly recommend testing the waters with the Goplus machine before becoming too heavily invested in a craft that you may not stick to.  I would also suggest checking out ChuckE2009 on YouTube for some great welding education and project ideas as well.

Below are links to product pricing and reviews for several different levels of arc welding machines and welding products for just about any budget.  I have also attached a link to ChuckE2009’s YouTube channel.  Be safe, and enjoy the learning experience!

Hiltex 100 Amp Arc Welder

Goplus 110/220v Arc Welding Machine

Lincoln AC “Tombstone” Arc Welding Machine

Lincoln AC/DC “Tombstone” Arc Welding Machine

Miller Maxstar Welding Machine

ChuckE2009 YouTube Channel

Safety Products

Welding Gloves

Auto-darkening Welding Helmet

Thank you very much for stopping by.  Please be sure to like, comment, follow, and share.  Below I have attached pictures of just a few of many of my home welding projects.

I would love to see your welding creations as well.  If you would like to share them with the world please click the link to tool-school.com’s Facebook group and share your work.  Thanks again!  https://www.facebook.com/groups/419636965149174/

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Welded “Flying Pig” scrap metal art.

flying pig 4

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Homemade welded car jack vise.
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Homemade charcoal forge
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DIY Wood Stove
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DIY Basketball goal/backboard
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DIY Post Support for Deck/Dock. Allows you to avoid digging post holes. Just drive into the ground. Holes are drilled into the top plate to allow for a bracket that I made to accept 4×4 posts to be bolted to it. It works very well.
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Welded Homemade fire (or ice) pit

 

 

 

 

 

Simple Lawn Mower Trick

 

It is not uncommon to find a mower similar to the one pictured above in the sheds and garages of homeowners across the country.  With the high price tags of zero turn mowers and the labor involved in walk behind mower operation, this popular style of riding lawn mower offers a nice compromise of out of pocket and physical labor expense.  These types of homeowner grade mowers are functional and dependable, but many brands and models often come with one feature that can be a huge nuisance when used to maintain a lawn, a safety feature that kills the engine when the blade is engaged and the mower is shifted into reverse.

Fortunately there is a way to eliminate this annoying feature with a simple solution costing most homeowners little to nothing except a few minutes of time, and requires one material that many people are likely to have laying around the house or shed.  All you need is a piece of sheathing from some electrical wire or some type of semi-robust piece of rubber to solve this issue.  The pictures and captions below will describe the process.

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First you will need to get a piece of rubber coating or sheathing and cut it to a length of about 2 inches.
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Next use a knife to cut a slit in one side of the sheathing so that it can be slid onto the part that needs to be covered coming up in a few steps.
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The sheathing should look like this after being sliced. Obviously it does not have to be perfect.
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Next, locate the shift knob on your mower. (The knob/lever used to shift the mower into forward, neutral, and reverse pointed to by the white arrow)
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Look below the fender and locate the shift rod that is connected to the knob above the fender. (Indicated by the white arrow)
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The rod connected to the shift knob above will be connected to a metal piece below the fender (indicated by white arrow) that is pushed back and made to contact with another metal piece (indicated by red arrow) which causes an electrical contact, signaling the motor to kill. There is wiring connected to the piece indicated by the red arrow that can be disconnected to avoid killing the mower, but I find using the sheathing to cover the metal piece to be a better method since it eliminates the chance of messing up the wiring harness or allowing the disconnected wire to corrode or contact anything else and short.
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Lastly, slide your piece of sheathing, coating, or rubber scrap over the metal piece that was indicated by the red arrow in the previous picture and you are done! This picture gives a good visual of how the sheathing prevents contact between the two metal parts when the mower is shifted into reverse, preventing the electrical signal for the mower to kill. I have used this same piece of sheathing since I bought the mower and the only time it has come off was when I pulled it off to take these pictures.

Below is a video of the same process featured in the pictures.  I apologize for the amateur cinematography.

I prefer to use the sheathing to cover the metal piece opposed to disconnecting the wires from the wiring harness for several reasons as previously mentioned because I do not want to take any chances of voiding the factory warranty.  If the electrical connectors used to connect the wires from mower to wiring harness would break or have some type of adhesive on them it would be broken when the wire was removed making it obvious that the harness had been tampered with.

Thank you for stopping by my site, I hope this information is helpful.  Should you have any questions please do not hesitate to contact me using the email address on my contact page.  For additional lawn mower care and maintenance tips from tool-school.com click here.

If you found this post to be helpful, informative, or entertaining please be sure to like, comment, and share via the sharing button on the bottom of the page.  Thanks again!

Ryobi Devour Sweeper Review — Tools In Action – Power Tool Reviews

Tool in Action Today, it seems like you can’t turn on a TV without seeing some DIY or Home Improvement program. These type of shows have been inspiring and empowering homeowners of every skill level to pick up a hammer and a drill to add their own personal touches to their homes. 25 more words

via Ryobi Devour Sweeper Review — Tools In Action – Power Tool Reviews

 

Ryobi Devour Sweeper